The Rear Door “Forcible Entry and Forcible Exit”

The first picture is of the rear door at Odom’s Bar. The second two pictures are of the same door, but from the inside. When looking at the door from the outside, it’s a little misleading. The second two pictures are really what you have on the inside. There are two barrel/ slide locks at the top and bottom. They should not be a problem since they are small screws that are screwed into the inner side of the door and door frame. It doesn’t appear the key lock will be that hard to force, but the big one. The 2×4 drop bar which is located at the middle of the door. The hanger is welded on the inside of the door frame. There is not a hanger mounted on the door. Knowing how this door is fortified, would prepare you for the entry. However since there are not any bolt heads on the outside of the door, you would not anticipate the additional security measures. Hope you get to use this.

This was submitted by Engine 519 of Escambia County FIre Rescue.

Just an Easy key and knob lock. Don’t under estimate any door. We have seen storm doors give a brother a challenge. Take any and all doors serious.

A view from the inside. Not a real BIG DEAL, if you have a REAL SET of Irons and have trained properly. HAVE YOU TRAINED? Do you have a REAL SET of IRONS?Are you up for the Challenge? What if a Firefighter was trapped behind this SIMPLE DOOR?

16 thoughts on “The Rear Door “Forcible Entry and Forcible Exit”

  1. I’ve tried to get my Captain to replace our “Fake” halligans (ie 3-piece, pinned heads) with more of the one piece forged bars, but I was told that the 3-piece bars meet NFPA standards. And that any door in my city that needs forcing can be handled with size 13 boots, so why would we ask the Public Safety Director (aka the former police chief) and city commissioners to pony up more cash?

    Any ideas how to beat this mentality? I already offered to show them print outs from “Irons and Ladders” posts re: busted 3-piece, Fake Halligans.

    • Find all the info you can on the Holligan bars….you will see many posts on failures of them, and show him the advantages of a true Halligan ! Any tool that is forged and one piece is better than one that is pinned ! If going to a forged halligan saves one injury from the failure of a hooligan bar, the halligan pays for itself ! Also most Hooligan bars are 36″ in length, this makes it much harder to use in restricted clearance areas ie: hallways, recessed doorways. Short of that do what FF’s are good at ! Break the hooligan tool during use, then have it replaced with a Halligan ! Also I am not aware that there is a NFPA standard on tools?

  2. Robert, KTF, but remember sometimes you just can not fixed stupid. The problem with that size 13 boot is it is powered with feet and legs that get brittle with age. Now if you you meet someone who can kick that door you might keep the aging comments to yourself for your own well being. Most who do not understand the difference between one piece and 3 piece have not done it or have not ran into that one door without defaulting to a saw.

  3. As far as the door in the photo, the simplest method would be to use the K-12 with the metal cutting blade and cut the door in half,width wise, and make it into a “Dutch Door”. Open the top half and remove the wooden bar by hand. Also a good method in dealing with a tough Fox lock.

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